ColorAcademy 2005

<< Return to Introduction
History of Fashion in Europe

Baroque Classicism (Mid-Baroque)

• Circa 1650 - 1710

• Form dominance

• Restraint of colour in dress

• Tightly laced bodices

• Starched shirts and collars

• Typified by generation born 1610's - 1630's

• Peaks 1670's - 1690's

In England, the swing from Cavalier to Puritan fashion is particularly marked following Oliver Cromwell’s final defeat of the Royalists, in 1649. Following Cardinal Richelieu’s success in making France the centre of European culture, high fashion remains dominated by the court of Louis XIV. Its formal but excessively elaborate styles were later (temporarily) introduced into England by Charles II, but did not gain general popularity.

Fig. 10a

Fig. 10b

Women’s dress tended to be tight-waisted, and restrictive of body and arm movement, with boned, corset-like bodices, laced at the back, ‘so that Breast nor Belly shall not swell out too much’ (Randle Holmes, 1688). Long, pleated skirts cover the whole of the female form. White starched lace or linen collars tend to be high and unrevealing, except for narrow sleeves showing the forearm. In general, dress and décor is simple, restrained, orderly and colourless.

Male dress in general remains similarly restrained, formal, colourless and sombre, typically black relieved only by white, starched linen collars and cuffs. Hair is generally worn short, following the example of Cromwell’s victorious roundheads, and subsequently, in the town or city, heads were shaved to accommodate the wearing of wigs. In general, styles appear conservative and even old-fashioned, as evident in the revival of the neck-ruff, particularly in Holland and Spain.

Baroque Classicism. Refer to portraits by David Teniers the Younger (1610-90), Gerard Ter Borch (1617-79), John Wright (1617-94), Peter Lely (1618-80), Charles LeBrun (1619-90), Jan Steen (c. 1625-79), Pieter de Hooch (1629-84), Gabriel Metsu (1629-67), Jan Vermeer (1632-75) and Godfrey Kneller (1646-1723). Other prominent figures include John Locke (1632-1704), Jean-Baptiste Lully (1632-1687), Christopher Wren (1632-1723), Robert Hooke (1635-1703), Jean Racine (1639-99) and Issac Newton (1642-1727).

<< Return to Introduction